All Alone on Annapurna Circuit: Slammed By A Cyclone, Spellbound by Beauty
By LiveHardxLoveHard
Summary
Topics Covered
- Cyclones Unlock Solitude
- High Route Rewards Boldness
- Pre-Acclimation Conquers Altitude
- Dal Bhat Fuels Sherpa Power
- Crisis Yields Once-in-Lifetime Solitude
Full Transcript
The Annaperna [music] Circuit. It's no wonder people call this
Circuit. It's no wonder people call this the Himalaya's most [music] beautiful trek. Majestic waterfalls, stunning
trek. Majestic waterfalls, stunning peaks whose summits reach into the jetream, and one of the world's highest and most [music] breathtaking mountain passes.
>> We were prepared for this adventure after our success at Everest base [music] camp. But mother nature threw a
[music] camp. But mother nature threw a curveball our way. Not one but [music] two giant cyclones over the Bay of Bengal closed all air and bus routes
into the Anapernas. [music]
>> We waited out the first storm, but we didn't have enough time left in our trip to wait [music] out the second. So, we
and our fearless guide got a jeep and drove straight into the teeth of Cyclone Month. Here's how [music] that went.
Month. Here's how [music] that went.
>> Oh no, someone is trying to go through and just crash in the middle. Number three. Now
stuck under the waterfall. I think the road might totally close.
>> Oh my god.
We're supposed to drive through this waterfall.
>> I don't know.
>> Oh, look at that. Stuff is fall. You guys
hear that? We got to go.
>> Okay, guys. We're bailing out. You can
see the waterfall back there.
>> No freaking way are we going to die crossing that thing.
>> No way. So, we're just going to have to try to get >> go backwards on this gnarly road and find somewhere to stay.
>> This is an awesome adventure. Oh my god.
>> We couldn't drive through the waterfall because three cars [music] just crashed into it.
>> We were like next and our guy was just said, uh, three cars just crashed.
They're just stuck in the waterfall right now. People are bailing out
right now. People are bailing out emergency style. So, we just flipped it
emergency style. So, we just flipped it around and got a little random tea house with no [music] blankets.
Um, right here, right next to the waterfall carnage.
>> Um, you can they just come down these cliffs here. And we're going to spend
cliffs here. And we're going to spend the night in this tea house and hope that the crazy rain abades so that we can drive through the waterfall tomorrow
morning. Okay guys, we are back to the
morning. Okay guys, we are back to the waterfall. The jeep that crashed into it
waterfall. The jeep that crashed into it is still stuck. But look, it's way better today now that it stopped raining.
>> Oh, we cruised through. No problem.
>> No problem.
>> Oh, there's Octopus Falls, guys.
>> Because we'd lost yet another day to the storm [music] we had to drive rather than walk up to Shame. And that's where our journey
Shame. And that's where our journey began.
>> Oh, the baby.
>> Well, Elise, the rain is starting again, but it is a waterfall bonanza.
>> Waterfall bonanza. We just stopped in an organic apple orchard. Got an apple cinnamon roll and apple donut. What is
this life?
>> Life is good right now.
It looks like Cyclone Montha is here to stay, at least for today. Luckily, we
have the world's most attractive parkas.
I told them neon green was my colorh.
And we are just going to battle our way towards upper pan through this cyclone.
>> All rain all the time around here.
Cyclone trekking. This is called Heaven's Gate and it is apparently quite spectacular when it's not clouded over.
Blue skies ahead, Elise.
>> Can I keep this on?
>> You might as well. It's like It's like [music] 10 minutes to our place.
The >> promise of a brighter tomorrow.
>> Oh, heck yeah.
>> At least the fall colors are popping. I
didn't know they got that color here.
>> I didn't either.
>> Look at this.
>> Oh my gosh.
>> Beautiful.
>> Really, really pretty.
>> Okay.
>> Okay.
>> Just keep praying for sunshine tomorrow.
>> It's our first view of Anaperna 2.
>> First view of Anaperna 2. It came out from behind the clouds and it looks spectacular.
>> That is a morning sunrise [music] over Ann on a burn too.
After two days of cyclone induced hardships, we woke up this morning to a crystal clear blue sky and the sight of Anna pererna 2
>> in the sunrise.
>> Isn't she a beauty?
>> So, what that means is there are two routes today >> up to Manong.
>> Up to Manong. One is the low route which isn't that great. The you have to take it if it's rainy or cloudy. The other is the high route which supposedly has lots
more climbing, lots more mileage, but the some of the best views of the entire track.
>> You know which route we're taking today, don't you? Don't you?
don't you? Don't you?
>> We're feeling high already. So, let's go to the high route.
>> Let's go.
>> First views of Anaperna [music] 3.
>> I can't believe it.
>> Look at those clouds blowing past the summit up there.
>> We're so lucky to get the clear skies.
[music] Unbelievable.
>> This high route got steep in a hurry.
>> In a jiffy.
>> As soon as you cross that [music] suspension bridge, this thing goes vertical. Can you remember a morning
vertical. Can you remember a morning hike with better views than this?
>> This is it.
>> Look at this, guys.
Anaperna 2 all the way over to Anna Perna 3.
Perfect morning. I just couldn't ask for anything better right now.
>> Apple pie and Anna Perna 2 and three.
>> Not bad.
>> Well, I don't know if this track is always like this, but so far I am shocked by how peaceful it is around here. I mean, it's just us and theas.
here. I mean, it's just us and theas.
It's just us in the furnace.
>> It's very different than the first few days of the Everest base camp track where you're just immediately thrust into this awesome, lively, very crowded, bustling mountain life,
>> yaks and mules >> here. It's just so much tranquility.
>> here. It's just so much tranquility.
It's just unbelievable. [music]
>> Yes, I think the storms probably did us a favor there. Um, and [music] starting early and going fast as usual, but we've just seen no one. Just us in the mountains.
>> I love it. Guys, standing here looking at the Anna Perna range is a perfect time to introduce Krishna, our wonderful guide. If you guys remember Prissant
guide. If you guys remember Prissant from the Ever Space Camp video, Krishna is Prissant's uncle. They really [music] like to keep it in the family at Alpine Ramble and we are here for that. And I
just want to give you guys a sense of the actual scale of these beasts because [music] since they're all with one another, it's kind of hard to tell how high they are. Christian, could you just tell us what mountains we're looking at
and how high these bad boys are? Okay.
So yeah, this is under Puna 2 which is 7,937 [music] m high. And then this one is under Puna
m high. And then this one is under Puna 3 which is 7,555 m high. And another another one is
m high. And another another one is [music] Gangapuna which is 7 uh 7,555 also there. And [music] another one
also there. And [music] another one Kangar and the last one is Likop.
>> How high is that?
>> That one is 7,100.
Basically, all of these peaks are above 25,000 ft.
>> It's chaos.
>> Chaos.
>> Oh no. [music]
Leprechaun.
I don't know how Adaberna [music] 3 looks on camera, but to the eye it is so spectacular. It fills the entire eyline
spectacular. It fills the entire eyline almost like you're looking at some sort of super high definition blowup. It
almost feels fake. You can see every ridge line, every creass. It's really
something to see >> on a peraf glacier.
It's pretty awesome.
>> [music] >> It is a gorgeous morning here in Manong.
[snorts] Today is an acclamation day, which honestly we really don't need that much because we already did the Everest base camp hike. So pretty good.
camp hike. So pretty good.
>> We're feeling fabulous at 12,000 ft. Um,
all the super high roots are closed right now.
>> This is the crazy cyclone that dumped all that snow.
>> Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. But our guide knows that I personally love glaciers. He's
like, "Oh, no. No. We got this.
>> We got this." Ganga Pera Glacier, Gangaperna Lake. That's where we're
Gangaperna Lake. That's where we're going. And guys, it is pretty dang
going. And guys, it is pretty dang spectacular. I'm not going to lie.
spectacular. I'm not going to lie.
Wow.
Wow.
Brea and let it go.
the wall where it begins.
[music] I'm calling you to go and still
I pray The world will let me stay >> on a pera too. Elise
too.
Okay.
>> Oh, now this is a view.
>> Yeah, baby.
>> Chunk court peak.
>> Chong carport. Chunk carorts.
>> We can't speak, [gasps] >> but it is the Gunga Perna Glacier.
>> Uhhuh.
>> And Gunga Perna Peak.
>> Amazing.
>> 25,000 ft.
>> That's a good looking glacier.
>> It was a really nice climb up here. It's
awesome. Ridge scrambling if you like that type of thing.
>> There's also a more inland trail if you want to be a little safer. Although,
honestly, that trail was icy af.
>> So icy, I think, from all >> I think I prefer the ridge.
>> Of course you prefer the ridge. Is
anyone surprised?
>> Now, the question is, we got to go back down all that snow and ice over under.
How many times do you think you'll fall in your butt? How many times do you think I will?
>> I'm falling at least three.
>> You think three?
>> I think three. It's really icy.
Although, maybe if we're lucky, the sun will start melting some of the ice.
>> You're falling one or none. Krishna is falling zero.
>> Chris is not going to fall. But the real question is, what are your guys' overunders? How many times will Elise
overunders? How many times will Elise slip on her butt? How many times will I How many times will Krishna? Everybody's
going to put zero for Krishna. He's not
going to fall.
>> How much faith do you have in me?
Friends, >> I just snuck over here to ask Krishna because he's so polite. I know he wouldn't say in front of Elise, but how many times do you really think Elise will fall on her butt? Do you think she'll fall at least once?
>> I think many time. I'm not asking. Yeah,
I think so. [laughter]
>> Wait, what do I mean? How many times do you think she'll fall?
>> Yeah, I think >> two. Two.
>> two. Two.
>> Two. Two. Three. I think so.
[laughter] >> Here we go.
>> Ski it. Ski it. Slide it. Oh.
[screaming] Oh, there's number one.
[laughter] If anybody had had one, you're in the money right now.
>> You're in the running. Okay. Oh, that
was almost two. You almost fell on the get up.
>> Krishna casually walking down.
>> If you go slower than the second coming of Christ, does that count as a fall?
[laughter] >> That's messed up.
>> Elise.
>> Yes.
>> Wow. I think your backers are going to be very, very happy. Elise made it back off of all the ice and snow with only one.
>> Only one. Only one.
>> I did have zero. So I won my own bet.
Christian had zero, but we all knew all Christian.
[laughter] >> That was fun.
>> Really, really fun. Highly recommend
this offshoot >> if you find yourself in what's >> in Manong. Everything burger. Veggie
burger with egg and cheese.
>> What do you think?
>> So good.
>> Really good.
>> So good.
>> Mhm.
[music] I will say we are quite lucky.
Look at these clear skies, you guys.
Today we are getting high. [music] We're
making our way from Manong [snorts] up to a little past Yakark, which is well over 13,000 ft. We're already getting close to 13,000.
And I got to tell you, I am struggling for some reason. My legs feel like lead.
They are burning with every step. And I
just cannot understand why. I'm well
acclimated.
I'm well trained. You guys saw our training video. I've been eating so much
training video. I've been eating so much food. So much food, guys. Overhydrating.
food. So much food, guys. Overhydrating.
I'm doing all the things. So, I just cannot figure out what is going on.
Maybe it's a combination of my pots and just poor circulation up at high altitude.
But I'm so frustrated. Shouldn't be
happening.
But despite this, I'm just going to keep soldiering through, persevering, cuz that's really all you can do up here. On
the flip side, the good news is that Adam is feeling just chipper.
>> I feel like a million bucks. We're at
13,000 ft. I could honestly trail run right now. The month of acclimation we
right now. The month of acclimation we did, plus the month we've been here, it's just gotten rid of my altitude kryptonite. The only sad thing is I
kryptonite. The only sad thing is I think that's almost adversely affecting Elise because she's feeling bad about her performance here. And honestly,
she's faster than pretty much every other hiker on the trail. It's just that because we train so hard and my body's just responding really well, I think
it's stressing her out that I can just go so fast without breathing hard and stuff. But, you know, you can't think
stuff. But, you know, you can't think that way. You just got to do go with
that way. You just got to do go with what your body's doing. I'm in no rush.
I'm happy to just, you know, do my pace and then sit and take in these views.
And I think she's doing great. So
hopefully she'll feel good about it.
>> That wind on on a Perna 2 is insane.
>> Onaperna 2 and on aerna 4. Elise. Isn't
it funny walking by a big beast like that and you look up and you're thinking, "Oh, we could probably climb that."
that." >> Just take that little snow ridge right up.
>> Take it right up. That thing is 20,000 ft.
>> Not an easy peasy climb.
>> I don't think we'd be doing that today.
>> No way.
>> The reason why I'm feeling so excited about feeling good at these altitudes between 12 and 18,000 ft is that I think
it puts some of those really big mountains into play for me.
If I was to pre-aclimate in Mammoth for a couple of months before climbing season, I feel very confident now that I could come here and do Amadablum.
Really any of those 6,000 m peaks, anything up to about 23,000 ft. Uh I
feel confident I could do that now. And
then if I can do those, who knows about the future? And then of course the same thing goes for the peaks back in the US. I used to just dread
doing something like the Palisades traverse cuz although I want to do that, it would mean feeling kind of bad, you know, at 13,000 ft or 14,000 ft for 18
straight hours. That's not the case now.
straight hours. That's not the case now.
I feel amazing. So all of those big traverses in the US and stuff, those are now completely in play. I feel very confident about those as well. So this
is a really big deal and uh pretty stoked. As soon as we leave one peak
stoked. As soon as we leave one peak behind, another opens up.
>> Tulu Peak.
>> Tulu Peak.
>> Over 20,000 ft.
Oh, Boo Boo. Our last suspension bridge of the day.
>> Beautiful everywhere.
And there's our hotel.
There's the river we get to cross.
Not all bad.
>> Cyclone Month that does not want to go away.
>> No.
>> The snow is cascading down. It's been
falling for hours. We are holed up in this tea house. I have no idea what it's going to look like tomorrow morning when we're supposed to ascend to 16,000 ft.
Um, but probably we're going to be breaking trail. So, wish us luck.
breaking trail. So, wish us luck.
>> Fingers crossed.
So, we got good news and we got bad news.
The good news is we woke up this morning and the storm [music] had temporarily abaded. So, our guide says it is
abaded. So, our guide says it is currently safe to continue on our way up to high camp at above 16,000 ft.
However, there is another blizzard forecast for around noon. So, we cannot dillydally.
We are the first ones out on trail today. And we're going to make our way
today. And we're going to make our way up to high camp as quickly as we can. If
quick is something that you can say at 16,000 ft.
>> Is there such a thing as racing against time at 16,000 ft? I don't think there's any racing up here.
>> You don't want to trail run this? I know
you do, but try to keep it under control. [laughter]
control. [laughter] >> I'm really liking this trail in the snow.
>> I love it. It's like a beautiful winter wonderland.
>> A winter wonderland. These gorgeous
steep drop offs down to the river down there.
>> Look at that.
>> Look at that.
>> That's insane.
>> You can see the sun up above these clouds. See up there? So maybe we can
clouds. See up there? So maybe we can hike through these clouds and get some sunlight.
>> You think so? Either that or the clouds are going to keep coming and hit us with another blizzard.
>> It could go either way.
>> We've been hiking for about two hours now. Have yet to see another human. It's
now. Have yet to see another human. It's
just feels like such a blessing to be on this incredible trek all alone.
>> [snorts] >> I think the blizzards from Cyclone Ma have deterred a lot of the other trekers but
our guide Krishna is very experienced and he assures us that he can find our
way through the pass tomorrow, even if it's completely buried in snow. And we
trust him and we are having a heck of a time out here. Well, this is what a totally deserted suspension bridge looks like.
>> How about this?
>> Pretty cool.
>> The wrong petty.
>> That's not our stopping place.
>> No, we're not stopping here. We're going
all the way up to high camp. Goies.
Well, we are on the final leg of our journey up to high camp.
We've got 1,000 more feet to go. We'll
post up at 16,000 ft tonight before attempting to cross Tangla Pass tomorrow in the middle of the night. I must
admit, after doing base camp, I thought that this day would seem like a walk in the park, but it was so hard to sleep at
14,000 ft. I got maybe an hour if we're
14,000 ft. I got maybe an hour if we're being generous. My legs are lead legs. I
being generous. My legs are lead legs. I
don't know what is going on. They don't
want to move.
It's very hard to breathe up here. So,
it is not the romanticized version of this day that I envisioned, but that is what the mountains do sometimes. You got
to take what you can get. And I mean, come on. It's beautiful. I'm alive. I'm
come on. It's beautiful. I'm alive. I'm
smiling.
Adam, on the other hand, is so darn chipper. He's having the time of his
chipper. He's having the time of his life. I'm pretty sure the man thinks
life. I'm pretty sure the man thinks that he's living in some sort of Himalaya fantasy camp. And I'm
altogether certain that he believes that he and our guide Krishna are basically the modern-day version of Hillary and Tenzig.
>> I'll tell you this, Hillary was 66. Just
like me.
>> Uhhuh.
>> And I would take Krishna on any of this.
He's awesome.
>> Christian's the best.
>> Awesome guide. He's keeping his face, but he's bold. There's no one else out here. He's not afraid. He's going
here. He's not afraid. He's going
[laughter] for it. So are we.
>> Adam and Hillary. Same. Same. Just a
little different. Yeah.
>> We're here already.
Bearist is the ticket. We went ultra slow up that thousand feet, which actually made us go what seems like
faster. Piece of cake. Never ceases to
faster. Piece of cake. Never ceases to amaze me that we have a tea house
waiting for us, hot food, a bed, all that at 16,000 ft. Wow.
It's 4:30 a.m. It's about
-20 Celsius.
The wind is picking up.
It's our second night in a row with zero sleep.
And we are making our way up to one of the highest mountain passes in the
entire world, Tangla Pass.
This is going to take us up to almost 18,000 ft, which is why I'm completely out of breath right now.
It's going to be a struggle to the top, but if we can do it, it's going to be spectacular up there.
>> Wow, that moon's so bright. You barely
even need light.
>> So incredible.
>> It's really making it beautiful out here.
That moon is something even with the sun coming up.
[music] Drownen [music] [music] from the inside.
[singing] >> [music] >> You okay?
>> Tired, huh?
>> So cold.
>> Yeah. So cold.
>> So tired.
>> We've been walking fast uphill for two straight hours at 17,000 ft.
>> Yeah.
>> How is it that you still just go the same pace? How
same pace? How >> it is the Dalbot power and 24-hour like >> stop it. Stop it.
>> You're telling me that because you eat dollbot for every meal?
>> Yeah.
>> This is what gives you this power.
[laughter] >> Yeah.
>> You're not a superhero. It's not cuz you were born at 8,000 ft. He's a dollbot.
>> Yeah.
>> I love it, dude.
>> I'm getting on the dollbot diet immediately. You guys, we have made it
immediately. You guys, we have made it to one of the world's highest passes, >> La Pass.
>> We are so >> Oh my god, freezing.
>> Oh my god.
>> I think we might have gotten hypothermia. Hypothermia
hypothermia. Hypothermia >> trying to film.
>> Wo, >> the shots of sunrise over on a 2.
>> Oh my god.
>> Wo, [laughter] that was treacherous.
But we made it. It's beautiful. We're
going to try to get as many shots for you guys as we can. We've also heard the way down is spectacular, so hopefully as we warm up, we'll get even more shots.
I'm stoked.
>> Yes, we just got a dehypothermia right now.
>> Dehypothermia. Let's go.
>> I cannot wait to get some oxygen.
>> Heck yeah.
>> Wow. Look at this beauty, though.
>> Absolutely stunning.
>> This is some descent. It's just
beautiful everywhere. I think Elise is still too out of it to do much. Her
hands are still frozen, but I am really enjoying this. Might have to do a little
enjoying this. Might have to do a little running.
Just feels spectacular. Let's get down this thing. Give me some oxygen.
this thing. Give me some oxygen.
>> More oxygen.
[music] [music] [singing] Oh, but if I [music] ever die,
remember how used to fly. [music]
>> Elise, >> look to your left. That's our first view of Doleigiri.
>> Dole Giri. That thing is like 27,000 ft high.
>> 8,167 m. And then Bill Gary Bill Gary's over
m. And then Bill Gary Bill Gary's over seven >> 700.
>> We have made it out of the snow line.
>> Wa!
>> That was an awesome downline.
>> 7,000 ft of descending today.
>> Oh man. Now we just got to stroll down to Muktenoth and that is where our journey ends. Isn't that kind of sad?
journey ends. Isn't that kind of sad?
>> I'm kind of sad. I want to stay and do more trekking, some climbing.
>> The Himalayas strike again. What an
insane trek. I have to say, despite the chaos at the start with Cyclone Montha, I honestly truly believe that that was a blessing in disguise.
>> Totally. Totally. Every crisis is an opportunity. And somehow this gave us
opportunity. And somehow this gave us the opportunity to be all alone on major stretches of the Anaperna circuit track.
>> Oh my gosh, >> that's crazy.
>> Yeah, >> that never happens.
>> So, that was pretty incredible. Pretty
once in a lifetime.
>> Yeah.
>> And I did want to just give one last major shout out to our Alpine Ramble team, guys. I mean, look, our biggest
team, guys. I mean, look, our biggest goal with these videos is to bring you along with us and make you feel as much as we can like you're right here with
us. And that just gets so hard the more
us. And that just gets so hard the more challenging the thing we're doing. I
cannot imagine trying to film at 18,000 ft and also carrying our huge packs up to the past this morning.
>> Man, we couldn't have done it without you.
>> Thank you, brother.
>> Yeah, >> that's Beck.
>> Yeah. Thank you so much. Yeah,
>> back our superhero.
>> Yeah, >> you guys are awesome.
>> Could you could you even fathom >> you guys? Our fingers stopped working because we wanted to get those beautiful shots of um Anna Perna 2 with a with a cloud layer below it.
>> Amazing. Yeah.
>> But both of our hands just wouldn't work. Krishna steps in and does some
work. Krishna steps in and does some crazy kind of kung fu move.
>> Krishna kung fu. He He does this kung fu move on Elise's hands and got them fixed up.
>> Yeah, after Krishna fixed my hands, we were able to get those last shots. It
was so much more enjoyable. So, I just love our family. These guys are the best.
>> Well, that kind of goes with what I wanted to say about, you know, just kind of closing out our Nepal trip, which is yes, this is about the epic landscapes and the giant mountains. I mean, it's
they're like nothing else we've ever seen, but it's also so much about the people. Oh my gosh, the culture.
people. Oh my gosh, the culture.
>> Yeah.
>> I just feel like we've had a kind of a spiritual awakening here in a sense. And
guys, I just want to do whatever it takes to give that to you. I know this is a really long flight for almost everyone, but it's just you have to do
it. And just let us know what we can do
it. And just let us know what we can do to make that possible for you. If you
need advice, you need to know, you know, maybe we could do a video on >> [snorts] >> um how we made it happen, what the costs are, things like that.
>> Yeah.
>> Um you know, how we we already did one on how we train, but uh if we if you want us to do a subscriber track, I'm totally willing to do that. Or maybe you just want us to keep coming back here
and climbing increasingly epic stuff, which we are 100% going to do. Um but
whatever it is, guys, you got to get here. You have to be here in person. It
here. You have to be here in person. It
is just incredible. And let us know what we can do to make that happen.
>> If you can, you must.
>> If you can, you must. And you must.
>> You must. We love you guys so much.
>> Love you guys. And we will see you next time. Not in Nepal. So sad.
time. Not in Nepal. So sad.
>> Back on the other side.
>> Yep. See you soon.
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