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How To Manually Level Ender 3 V3 KE/SE

By LayerLab

Summary

## Key takeaways - **Replace stock spacers with silicone**: Take off the build plate, take out these screws and then replace these spaces with silicone ones. These are the spacers that it comes with they are solid plastic and they come in two different sizes. [00:31], [00:10] - **Silicone spacers slightly larger, adjustable**: These ones are a little bit bigger than the actual spaces that this comes with so 14 and 16 I believe these are 16 and 18 but that's okay cuz we can change the size of them as we tighten them. [00:53], [01:04] - **Before: 1.3mm range, lopsided height map**: Here is a height map of what my printer looked like before as you can see it's going all the way up to 0.6 the range is 1.3 mm which is a lot... it's completely lopsided it's like completely red up here and completely blue down here. [01:47], [02:10] - **After: range drops to 0.2mm**: After I added on the silicone spaces this is what it turned into so the range is 0.2 which is much better and I think that I get pretty decent print quality with everything under 0.2. [02:19], [02:31] - **One rotation adjusts height by 0.4mm**: I do find that one full rotation is about 0.40 so for instance we have 19 over here probably just want to do half a turn for that. [03:24], [03:36] - **Retighten periodically, aim under 0.2mm**: After every few prints this will slowly creep up we just have to treat this now as a regular manually leveled bed... you don't have to get it perfect when you go to retighten it either because you can just get it under 0.2 and you can let the auto leveling do its thing. [02:42], [03:04]

Topics Covered

  • Silicone Spacers Fix Auto Bed Leveling
  • Target Under 0.2mm Deviation Range
  • One Turn Equals 0.4mm Adjustment

Full Transcript

so you've got an end 3v3 K or SE and youve realized that the bed leveling isn't working so here is a way to turn your automatic bed leveling printer into

a manual printer by using silicone spacers so these are the spacers that it comes with they are solid plastic and they come in two different sizes I think

one on the left is 14 mm and the one on the right is 16 216 214 I've been having all these issues with my bed level like this is way better than before put a

photo up on what it used to be before I added the silicone spaces in but basically all you have to do is take off the build plate take out these screws and then replace these spaces with

silicone ones now I had these from my end3 base model um when I went through pain and suffering with that machine and now in the creality way I'm going

through pain and suffering with this one so these ones are a little bit bigger than the actual spaces that this comes with so 14 and 16 I believe these are 16

and 18 but that's okay cuz we can change the size of them as we tighten them now the downside to this is that yes they probably will come loose over time they're not solid plastic they are

malleable a possible solution to that is not using these things because they're too big and they hid into the frame what you could use are these guys so uh make

sure they are the right size for the screw and then then shove them on I don't know what size these are I just found them in a box so I apologize but I'm sure that the sizing can be found

online of what the screws are or simply just take the screw out of your printer or out of the bed plate and check it for yourself they're generally an M something M3 M4 and then once you get

this guy on that should hold it in there a bit more uh consistently and you won't have to deal with it coming out of line so here is a height map of what my printer looked like before uh as you can

see it's going all the way up to 0 6 the range is 1.3 mm which is a lot so the higher this number gets the more your auto leveling system has to work so the

aim is to get this number as low as possible and you can see it's completely lopsided it's like completely red up here and completely blew down here so the auto calibration is working in

overdrive and it's just causing so many problems with the printer so after I added on the silicone spaces this is what it turned into so so the range is

0.2 which is much better and I think that I get pretty decent print quality with everything under 0.2 so as long as you can keep it under that I find that

after every few prints this will slowly creep up we just have to treat this now as a regular manually leveled bed you can always print the spaces maybe out of

ptg so you don't have to worry about readjusting it but for the time being I'm happy just to turn it every now and then and and tighten it up you don't have to get it perfect when you go to

retighten it either because you can just get it under 0.2 and you can let the auto leveling do its thing so basically once you have the silicone spaces

installed you tighten them up until they're snug do an auto level check your stats and then remove the build plate

and using your Allen key tightening them accordingly now I do find that one full rotation is about 0.40 so for instance we have 19 over

here probably just want to do half a turn for that but just keep in mind when you change this it's going to affect everything else and that's how bed leveling works unfortunately as close to zero as you can get is good I don't

think you're going to get it perfect like you might be able to but you'll be out here for a very long time um I'll put the links for the silicone spaces up in the description hope this has helped

you see you in the next video

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